Letter from Dad Re: Buenos Aires
OK, where to begin???
Let's start with the cabs - there are one million of them, the white lines on the road are obviously make work projects, since no one pays the slightest attention to them - stop signs have not been invented yet, and the preferred modus operandi when coming to an intersection is to play aggressive chicken.
On many days when there is not too much wind, Buenos Aires , (Beautifull Air) is a total misnomer since the air one inhales on the busy streets (and they're ALL busy) is a cloud of diesel exhaust.
All the women have model's figures, yet there is a restaurant/caf‚ usually full of people eating and caf‚ing in them.
BUSY, BUSY, BUSY. BUSTLE, BUSTLE, BUSTLE...are the roads and sidewalks, yet at the caf‚'s the whole scene slows right down and people will sit over a tiny cup of coffee for 2 to 3 hours.
There are literally thousands of shops, all of them specialising in one thing...like fruit or dry breads, art etc. etc. And everything is done with style - people dress well, the waiters wait with elegance, the food and beverages are all served with style and grace. It's a fairly pricey place to hang out.
Alana's pad is very nice, and in a nice part of town.
Highway driving border's on total insanity - I find it quite a dichotomy that the same people who will spend 2 hours having a quarter of a cup of coffee, want to go 100 km's in under 20 minutes and are totally prepared to risk their lives in this objective.
Very few people here know any English at all.
Oh yeah, driving back from the car rental place, in the swarm of cabs and buses, I had the honour of a bus driver giving me the bird out of his window - all fingers squeezed together sort of pointing up and bent at the wrist. (Like - Whats a matta fo you!!! )EH!)
The dogs are as well mannered as their owners.
Most of the food has been superb in my estimation.
We went to a beach about 350 k's south of here last weekend called Pinamar and stayed in a lovely little hotel just up from the beach. The beach is quite wide and at the back of it are beach restaurants and caf‚s who supply all the deck chairs and etc. FOR FREE...and hope that you will patronise their establishment.
In no restaurant, caf‚ or stores are you ever pressured, in fact almost the opposite is true, you must seek out their assistance. VERY CIVILIZED in my opinion.
Although I have never been to Europe I would guess this city is very much like Paris. Nothing here seems dangerous that I can tell - I see very little begging or hustling of any kind. It seems quite safe, even though there are almost no police and the ones there are seem to be very laid back and relaxed.
Later, Russell
OK here's more....
Back to cars, a favourite subject of mine - almost no cars here are the same as in Canada - even the common ones, like Cherokee's, are turbos and diesels. Almost all of the cabs are Peugeot's, most cabs are small and lots are diesels. Diesel is .55 cents a litre and regular $1.05.and that is equivalent to Yankee dollars remember. Tolls on the 350 km. Drive were about 20 pesos each way. 1 peso = 1 Yankee dollar
In the city at night all the cabs drive with very dulled down headlights - a nice touch I think. Horns and flashing hi beams are a large part of driving. Hazards are used for double and triple parking. Girl drivers are quite capable of parallel parking a stick shift in a spot with no more than 6 inches extra space.
On the tree-lined streets - all of them are lined with 5 to 15 story buildings - the first level houses all the little shops. The rest of the floors are apartments with little balconies over the street. This heavy density, and it is everywhere, creates a wonderful never-ending flow of pedestrians and cars.
It is quite fashionable for young and old couples to walk arm in arm, or with arms draped around each other -even daughters and fathers or mothers and grandmothers. Open displays of young couples embracing is quite frequent. It's so catchy I even put my arm around Milda and gave her a BIG KISS.
The architecture is beautiful with grand entrances and huge brass knockers on 15 foot high carved doors. The caf‚s are wonderful - you can sit outside with your little cup of java and watch the world go by for hours. Inside the chatter can get very loud as all the couples and three and foursomes get to intercoursing with one another.
When I think of more I'll put it down......
Today Milda and I, after a beautiful breakfast in a caf‚ took a cab to a 150 year old Japanese garden situated amidst all the intense hustle and bustle of 5 to 10 lane one ways with roundabouts you float into this Sheng Fui Park of total calm where the carps, ducks and birds come to you to be fed...another complete respite from the freneticisim.
And, oh yes, Alana has been wonderful, not only as an itinerary guide, but as an interpreter, while putting in 11 and 12 hour days at work. (emphasis added by editor)
P.S. Did I mention the proliferation of super model women? Milda informs me that they are balanced by the beautiful men.
Russell
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