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This week
If you've been a regular follower of FRONTLINE over the years, you know that producer Martin Smith has reported several times on one of America's most important allies, the troubled nation of Saudi Arabia. Late last year he returned there, and in this week's program, "House of Saud," he presents a fascinating look at a nation where tradition and modernity are in violent collision.
We hope you'll be able to watch it Tuesday night. In the meantime, Martin wanted to share with you a story, and some pictures, that you won't be seeing in the broadcast --
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"I had good reason to fear this trip. Before leaving, I had asked co-producer Chris Durrance to prepare a chronology of recent events. A few days before our flight, he handed me 25 typed pages. It was mostly a chronology of anti-American violence.
After arriving, one of the first things we noticed was no westerners were on the streets or in the restaurants. We wondered how difficult it was going to be to work, especially if we wanted to escape occasionally from the mindful eyes of our official Ministry of Information guides.
One such occasion I will not soon forget. Some Saudi friends (unofficial guides we met through contacts outside the country) invited us to see what young restless Saudis do out of view of the police and their elders. We drove about 90 minutes into the desert. By late afternoon, we were driving over large amber sand dunes, passing Bedouin sheepherders huddled around fires and white-robed Saudis taking their afternoon prayers. Then, suddenly, we came to where hundreds of cars were parked just below the crest of a large dune. We stopped and began hiking to the top.
What we saw was both comic and hellacious. Scores of jeeps, SUV's, dune buggies, and a few Mercedes and other sedans were racing wildly up and down the face of the dune. Young boys were hanging out of the windows, or sitting atop pick-up cabs shouting and whooping. Radios blared a blend of Western and Arabic rock and roll. It was many accidents waiting to happen. Cars tried to climb until they slid sideways as the sands gave way beneath them. Some nearly capsized. There were many narrow misses and surrounding the whole spectacle were hundreds of Saudis crowding the edges, daring the drivers to come closer, cheering and laughing.
(View photos: pbs.org )
We began filming and most of the young men (women would never be allowed at such an event) were friendly. But as the sun went down,it became progressively rowdier. One young man was playing bull fighter amidst the racing cars as the crowd egged him on. I followed my cameraman Nick Hughes around carrying gear he might need and somehow, we wandered into what quickly became a hostile mob. It started innocently enough with boys kissing the lens as we filmed, clowning for the camera. But soon we were being jostled; someone tried to grab the camera, another was pulling the tripod from my hands.
Nick turned to me and suggested we slowly move away. As we did, the crowd, having its fun, continued to push and shove us. Soon they were throwing sand and shouting I don't know what. I wondered if it was going to get worse and what we could do. We kept moving as best we could, trying to head back up and over the dune to where we remembered parking. In the midst of a crowd of some 200 young men, I became separated from Nick. I wondered where our Saudi friends were. Suddenly I hear a loud yell and a car door slam. Then I see the crowd parting, kids diving out of the way, and a car speeding up the dune with Nick inside. I start to run behind it and get about 50 yards, breathless, up the dune when I spot my Saudi friend next to his car. "Come here, Martin." My head and shoulders are covered with sand.
The crowd bordered on violent. Had we reacted by returning a shove I fear everything would have escalated quickly out of control, giving them an excuse to punch back. Nick kept his cool. Two young Saudis had seen what was developing and mercifully threw him and the camera into their car. The momentary commotion allowed me to escape up the slope.
Needless to say we didn't mention the adventure to our official guides at the Ministry of Information." -- Martin Smith
We hope you will be able to watch "House of Saud" Tuesday, Feb. 08 at 9pm on PBS (check local listings) and after the broadcast visit our web site where you'll be able to read analysis on the prospects for reform in the kingdom, and explore FRONTLINE's in-depth interviews with members of the Al Saud royal family, Saudi officials, reformers and religious leaders. Plus, take the opportunity to share your opinion on this report at pbs.org
Louis Wiley Executive Editor |