Triple Caramel Chunk, a caramel ice cream with a swirl of caramel and fudge-covered caramel chunks. It's from B&J's and I want it!!
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Scoop du jour: Forget low-fat and fat-free. The ice cream of this summer has a gourmet taste.
By Gwen Schoen Bee Staff Writer (Published June 16, 1999)
The best way to soothe a broken heart, melt down a hot day or calm a screaming kid is with a big, drippy ice cream cone. Yes, when the going gets tough, the tough get going. The rest of us head for the freezer.
Last year must have been a tough one. Americans drowned their sorrows in 1.6 billion gallons of ice cream and frozen desserts. The year was especially difficult in Portland, Ore., where residents ate more ice cream per capita than any other city in the United States, according to Victor Zaborsky, spokesman for the International Ice Cream Association in Washington, D.C.
"Apparently, vanilla was the most comforting flavor, at 29.2 percent of U.S. sales," Zaborsky says. Nut flavors and chocolate each accounted for about 10 percent of sales. Other categories were fruit, then candy flavors such as caramel or peppermint.
As long as we're discussing comfort, which is better, fat or fat-free?
"The preference is for high fat," Zaborsky says. "The health trend is over as far as the ice cream industry is concerned. The sales of low-fat and nonfat have declined in the last couple of years. Sales of premium and super-premium ice creams, which are much higher in fat, have increased 13 and 15 percent, respectively. If Americans are going to indulge in ice cream, they want the real thing, they want flavor, not something that resembles it."
That bit of news was an invitation for producers to fatten up the ice cream offerings with a long list of new flavors.
While nothing has nudged vanilla and chocolate out of the top three spots, according to Zaborsky, the biggest trend in gourmet ice cream is coffee flavors. Caramel is another strong trend, especially Dulce De Leche.
"Dulce De Leche caramel is now being made by several ice cream manufacturers," Zaborsky says. "The flavor is very much like Mexican custard or flan, and it is definitely moving up on the popularity scale."
From a consumer's standpoint, the market seems to be overrun with new ice cream flavors, yet manufacturers say that to stay competitive, they need to continue adding new flavors to their production. Ben & Jerry's begins each year with an idea bank of 150 to 200 potential new flavors.
"We whittle our list down to just a handful," explains Ben & Jerry's development director, Mary Kamm. "Our new flavors just making their appearance in the supermarket right now are actually the result of a year's worth of work. We pay close attention to culinary trends around the country, and conduct market research to see which concepts are the best. We even tested a jalapeño sorbet once."
There is no Ben & Jerry's Jalapeño on this year's hit parade, but there are four new premium ice creams:
Triple Caramel Chunk, a caramel ice cream with a swirl of caramel and fudge-covered caramel chunks.
Southern Pecan Pie, a brown sugar ice cream with pecans and chunks of pecan pie pieces and a pecan caramel swirl.
Bovinity Divinity, a milk chocolate ice cream with white chocolate cows swirled with white chocolate ice cream and dark fudge cows.
Pistachio Pistachio, a pistachio ice cream with lightly roasted whole pistachio nuts.
Godiva is one of the latest manufacturers of sweet stuff to jump into the freezer. The maker of gourmet chocolates and coffees has joined up with Dreyer's and is selling what it calls ultra-premium ice cream. The new lineup includes Belgian Dark Chocolate, Chocolate Hazelnut Praline, Chocolate Raspberry Truffle, Pecan Caramel Truffle, Ivory Chocolate Chip and White Chocolate Raspberry.
As best as we can tell, ultra-premium ice cream isn't nutritionally different from super-premium ice cream. A 4-ounce serving of Haagen-Dazs chocolate (super-premium) contains 270 calories and 18 grams of fat. An equal serving of Godiva Belgian Dark Chocolate (ultra-premium) has 280 calories and 17 grams of fat. When you're dealing with numbers that high, 10 calories and a gram of fat aren't going to make a big difference.
At $3.30 for a 12.5-ounce carton, Godiva's ultra-premium ice cream costs slightly more than Haagen-Dazs or Ben and Jerry's, which come in 16-ounce containers for about the same price.
Not all ice creams are created equal. There are choices in today's ice cream case to suit a variety of consumer tastes. Here's what they all mean, according to the FDA:
Ice cream is a frozen food made from a mixture of dairy products, containing at least 10 percent milk fat.
Low-fat ice cream contains a maximum of 3 grams of total fat per serving (1/2 cup).
Nonfat ice cream contains less than 0.5 grams of total fat per serving.
In addition, there are commonly used marketing phrases that describe ice cream products in terms of "quality segments," such as super premium (or ultra premium), premium and economy. These distinctions are based on the quality of the ingredients, package style and how much air is incorporated into the product during its manufacturing.
In the ice cream industry, the amount of air that is whipped into the product is called the overrun. Adding air, or overrun, is important because air keeps the product soft enough to serve and eat. Overrun is governed by federal standards that limit the amount of air allowed in a product labeled as ice cream.
Super-premium ice cream tends to have very low overrun, higher fat content and uses top-quality ingredients. That list would include such brands as Ben & Jerry's, Haagen-Dazs and Godiva.
Premium ice cream tends to have low overrun and higher fat content than regular ice cream, and uses high-quality ingredients. Premiums are brands such as Dreyer's Grand and Breyers.
Economy ice cream meets required overrun and generally sells for a lower price. That list would include brands such as Borden, Sealtest or Meadow Gold.
Besides ice cream, the frozen food cases also include some other products that are similar to ice cream.
Frozen custard or French ice cream is required to contain a minimum of 10 percent milk fat, as well as at least 1.4 percent egg yolk solids.
Sherbets have a milk-fat content of 1 to 2 percent and a slightly higher sweetener content than ice cream.
Gelato is characterized by an intense flavor and is served in a semi-frozen state. Gelato contains sweeteners, milk, cream, egg yolks and flavoring.
Sorbet and water ices are similar to sherbets, but contain no dairy ingredients.
Frozen yogurt consists of a mixture of dairy ingredients such as milk and nonfat milk, which have been cultured, as well as ingredients for sweetening and flavoring.
Cream of the crop
It was impossible to get through every single new ice cream flavor on the market this summer, but here are a few that we liked best.
White Chocolate Raspberry Made by Godiva Price: $3.30 for three-quarters pint Bad news: One serving is 250 calories, 110 of them from saturated fat. That's 36 percent of your RDV for fat. Good news: This could be the best ice cream ever made -- except, of course, for chocolate. Generous swirls of raspberries are marbled throughout. It's Kosher.
Pineapple Coconut Made by Haagen-Dazs Price: $3.20 a pint Bad news: There are 230 calories in a serving, 120 of them from saturated fat. One serving supplies 40 percent of your RDV for fat. Good news: Sweet, juicy pineapple is blended into coconut-flavored ice cream. Close your eyes and you'll think you are on a Hawaiian beach sipping a piña colada.
Java Chip Made by Starbucks Coffee Price: $2.70 a pint Bad news: One serving is 250 calories, 120 of them from saturated fat. That supplies 42 percent of your RDV for fat. Good news: Coffee lovers will be in heaven. The flavor is like unsweetened coffee but with generous amounts of sweet chocolate shavings.
Chocolate Chocolate Fudge Made by Haagen-Dazs Price: $3.19 a pint Bad news: Each serving has 290 calories, 180 of them from saturated fat. That's 55 percent of your RDV for fat. Good news: Chocoholics may find that one serving is plenty. It's dark and creamy with a semisweet fudge generously swirled through the chocolate ice cream.
Triple Caramel Chunk Made by Ben & Jerry's Price: $3.30 a pint Bad news: There are 290 calories in a serving, 140 from saturated fat. That supplies 60 percent of your RDV. Good news: Caramel lovers will flip. It's caramel ice cream with a thick swirl of creamy caramel. Scattered throughout are chunks fudge-covered caramel.
Belgian Dark Chocolate Made by Godiva Price: $3.30 for three-quarts pint Bad news: A mere 280 calories per serving, 110 from saturated fat. That's 36 percent of your RDV for fat. Good news: This is a good one if you like semisweet chocolate. It's made with melted Godiva semi-sweet chocolate so it's a dark chocolate color. It's Kosher.
Italian Roast Made by Starbucks Coffee Price: $2.70 a pint Bad news: Just 230 calories a serving, 110 of them from saturated fat. One serving is 34 percent of your RDV for fat. Good news: Take a whiff and you'll think you've just opened a sack of dark roast coffee beans. If you are looking for something that's not so sweet, this is a good choice.
Bovinity Divinity Made by Ben & Jerry's Price: $3.30 a pint Bad news: There are 290 calories in a serving, 160 from saturated fat. That provides 64 percent of your RDV for fat. Good news: Milk chocolate ice cream with white chocolate cows swirled with white chocolate ice cream and dark fudge cows. Yes, the chocolate chips are really shaped like little cows.
Note: A serving is a half cup, which everyone knows is just enough to get you through the opening credits of a good tear-jerker movie. RDV is the recommended daily value. All of the ice creams listed here were readily available at local supermarkets, however prices did vary slightly.
FROSTY ICE CREAM PIE
Prep time:25 minutes. Cook time:25 minutes. Makes 2 pies or 12 servings.
Think creatively. Baked with fudge frosting and just a little water, a chocolate cake mix makes two fudgy shells for ice cream pies. This recipe is from "Pillsbury Best Desserts" by the Pillsbury Company, published by Crown Publishing Group.
Ingredients:
1 (1 pound, 2.25-ounce) package, pudding-included devil's food or dark chocolate cake mix 1 (16-ounce) can chocolate fudge frosting 3/4 cup water 11/2 quarts (6 cups) ice cream, slightly softened
Instructions:
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Generously grease bottom, sides and rim of two 9-inch pie pans. (Do not substitute 8-inch pie pans.)
In a large bowl, combine cake mix, 3/4 cup of the frosting and water; beat at low speed until moistened. Beat two minutes at high speed. Spread half of the batter in the bottom of each greased pan. Do not spread the batter up the sides of the pan.
Bake at 350 degrees for 20 to 25 minutes or just until center is set. Do not overbake. Cakes will collapse to form shells. Cool one hour or until completely cooled.
Spoon ice cream evenly into each shell. In a small saucepan, heat remaining frosting over low heat just until melted, stirring occasionally. Drop by teaspoonfuls over ice cream; lightly swirl with tip of knife to marble. Freeze about one hour or until firm.
Serve immediately or cover and freeze until serving time. If necessary, let pie stand at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.
Per serving: 454 cal.; 5 g pro.; 72 g carb.; 17 g fat (7 sat.; 4 monounsat.; 2 polyunsat.; 4 other); 29 mg chol.; 523 mg sod.; 2 g fiber; 34 percent calories from fat.
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