Glad to see that Tibet is still occasionally discussed on this thread. Now that I've see a small bit of Tibet and my headache has subsided, thought I'd toss in my .02 cents. We visited the two largest cities in Tibet - Lhasa and Xigase and passed through a number of rural districts, smaller towns and enclaves as well.
These two cities, both modest in size are located in relatively low level river bottom land. The largest - Lhasa is about 11,800 feet above sea level, while Xigase is about 1000 feet higher. The surrounding Tibetan plateau is about 15000 - 16000 feet with mountains extending upwards from there. So now you might ask, why the lesson in geography, so what ? The point is Tibet is an extreme place, only a few can survive and flourish there.
The relative lack of oxygen in Lhasa was enough to give everyone on our trip significant problems. The higher we traveled the worse it became. On our journey from Lhasa to Xigase, we took the traditional route, 10 hours by bus over two passes both about 16,000. People from lowlands cannot simply migrate to such extreme geography and expect to "adjust". The simple act of breathing is tough at such elevations. For example at the hotel where we resided while in Lhasa, one can order free of charge an "air pillow". Its a neoprene pillow with a breathing tube filled with oxygen enriched air. These were good. It helped momentarily to clear one's head, reduce the headache (caused I suppose by some low level of cerebral edema).
In Lhasa pop 150,000, we saw a large component of the population were Chinese. These tended to be merchants and shopkeepers. There appeared to be a separation of the cultures. The Chinese primarily servicing Chinese customers, and the Tibetans serving Tibetans. Most true Tibetan peoples were more agrarian and lived in small pastoral farming and grazing enclaves outside of the towns. These enclaves lacked outward signs of Chinese or Western influence. None had electrical power, very little in the way of mechanized equipment, even running water was in limited visibility. Most depended on well water. At the one enclave that we visited extensively even a fourth wall was missing from most houses, the occupants depending on hanging cloth barriers to the outside elements. Yet these quarters seemed warm and cozy and a huge supply of quilt-like blankets was readily available.
Yet the Tibetans seem to survive and flourish. They seemed happy and exuberant, children and adults waving, smiling at the passing of a bus, most engaged in field work raising their staple barley by hand and with yak power or tending flocks of goat and sheep on what I would consider hardscrabble lands.
There was obvious sign of a military presence, but most of the military installations appeared empty in a pathetic ghost-town sort of way. The few soldiers that we saw appeared weak and lost in the vastness of the Tibetan highlands. No mechanization, frontier outpost duty, largely a show of force but not a significant force itself.
One hamlet we passed through, on the shores of lake Yangdog Yumtso, Nagartse, seemed especially desolate. Populated by Chinese, it appeared as if everybody in town was waiting, possibly to catch the next bus out of town. The perception of commerce, industry, commercialization were lacking. They all looked like they would be desperately happy to flee their environment and head back to more suitable lowlands in Sechuan province if only they could - "Chengdu here I come, right back where I started from..." to put a tune to it.
In this land of contrasts the Tibetan spirit showed its strength in its religious beliefs. The modern Tibetans like their ancestral heritage are firmly and strongly Buddhist. They filled the temples and shrines with their presence and their offerings of "yak butter" drippings, and token paper money. And what temples they have! Marvelous statuary and wonderfully detailed wall paintings. Icons filling every corner crack and crevice. Great stupas (burial chambers) in every temple and pictures adorning these. Monks at every temple and pilgrims galore. White silk scarves draped in profusion over every image of Buddha. Pleasant and remarkable to behold, the smell of yak butter burning, the feel of yak butter on every rail and surface. Every surface touched, and bowed before and kissed. Prayer wheels in profusion. The Tibetans rejoice in their religion, it is deeply entwined in their life.
The people of Tibet are different genetically. They have more efficient lungs, bigger hearts and circulatory systems, over the ages they have adapted to their environment and they are thriving. I don't believe the current Chinese presence will prevail, the draw of the lowlands and the big cities will be too much to resist for most.
Tibet is well worth the visit, but plan on buying some oxygen, you will need it. I climbed 10 mountains this summer in the northern Sierra as part of a regimen to get ready for Tibet. In the end it didn't seem to do much good. Perhaps I should have been climbing in the 10-14K range rather than the relatively low 7-10K range. Viva Tibet! |
