UPDATE 1-CALVIN KLEIN, WARNACO SETTLE TRADEMARK DISPUTE
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(New throughout) By Gail Appleson, Law Correspondent NEW YORK, Jan 22 (Reuters) - Calvin Klein and Warnaco Group's chief executive Linda Wachner settled their bitter trademark dispute on Monday with a kiss in federal court minutes before a jury was to be picked in their battle over the sale of designer jeans to warehouse clubs. The cordial exchange between the high-powered fashion figures not only signaled an end to the nasty war between the two, but breathed new life into Warnaco that could have been gravely hurt if their licensing agreements had ended. Calvin Klein jeans account for about one-third of Warnaco's revenue. News of the deal helped drive Warnaco's shares up 40 percent, or $1 to $3-1/2, in early afternoon New York Stock Exchange trading. The stock has fallen as low as $1-1/4 from a high of $12-9/16 in the past 52 weeks. Calvin Klein, who had sued Warnaco for selling his trademarked jeans to discount retailers like Sam's Club, BJ's and Costco, told reporters after the deal was announced that licensing agreements remained intact but that the terms would not be made public. "It's confidential," he said. While no information was available on any monetary agreements, a statement released by the two companies indicated that Calvin Klein jeans would no longer be sold to warehouse discounters. "The parties look forward to expanding jeanswear sales consistent with the image and prestige of Calvin Klein products and to expanding and concentrating the distribution of Calvin Klein jeanswear products in the department and specialty stores," the statement said. The statement said the companies believe the settlement will "protect and promote the integrity and success of the Calvin Klein brand." The legal dispute began in May, when Calvin Klein sued Warnaco and its feisty chief executive Wachner alleging they had tarnished his lucrative trademark and broke a licensing contract by distributing Calvin Klein jeans to warehouse clubs without his consent. A month later Warnaco countersued asserting that it is contractually entitled to sell Klein's jeans to discounters and that Calvin Klein knew where the jeans were being sold and received more than $85 million in royalties between 1998 and 2000. Warnaco also charged that it was Calvin Klein who violated their licensing agreements, and the company accused the designer of defamation and trade libel for "false and malicious public statements." Shortly before jury selection was set to begin in Manhattan federal court in what promised to be a particularly nasty trial, a Calvin Klein lawyer asked U.S. District Judge Jed Rakoff for a brief delay because the two sides were close to a deal after negotiating all night. During the short recess, Klein walked over to the counsel table where a smiling Wachner was seated. They shook hands and shared a brief peck on the cheek in front of a courtroom packed with lawyers and fashion industry observers. The scene between what looked like two old friends sharply contrasted with their vitriol since the litigation began. The designer had said in his suit that Warnaco and Wachner "have become a cancer on the value and integrity" of his trademark. In addition to bringing suit, Klein went on CNN's "Larry King Live" and accused Warnaco of making substandard products. Privately held Calvin Klein Inc. claimed that Warnaco was also altering the company's designs and skimping on quality in violation of the contract, which gives Warnaco the license to make Calvin Klein jeans through 2044. The suit had sought millions of dollars in damages and a termination of contracts with Warnaco. Warnaco countersued alleging Klein hurt the brand himself through allegedly defamatory remarks made on "Larry King Live" and in a speech to retail executives. Sales of Calvin Klein jeans accounted for $628.6 million in Warnaco revenue for 1999, roughly one-third of its total revenue. Stock analystssaid the jeans were also responsible for one-third of Warnaco's cash flow. Some analysts had predicted that Warnaco, which has posted losses for the last two quarters, could not have survived if it lost the Calvin Klein contracts. The settlement marks the latest crisis that Wachner, a tough and determined businesswoman, has survived. She has credited her strength to the diagnosis of severe scoliosis (curvature of the spine) as a child. After her husband died in 1983, she became even more of a fighter. She led a buyout at Warnaco in 1986 and turned the $450 million company into a $2.3 billion giant with a stable of well-known and designer apparel brands. REUTERS Rtr 14:17 01-22-01 |