HARVEST ORANGE
This has some interesting recipes and also a few hints..from choosing a pumpkin to carving it.
Note the ideas to do away with the soggy bottom pumpkin pie.
jack-o-lantern.com./
Here is the carving site...looks like fun! Enjoy! Rudi
From pies to jack-o’-lanterns, pumpkins mark the change of season.
By Sidney Carlisle
Photography by Greg Milano
One flick of a wand changed a big orange pumpkin into Cinderella’s magnificent coach, a transformation that still fascinates. Most grown-ups have dismissed Cinderella entirely, preferring instead to remember the historical accounts of frozen colonists eating baked pumpkins at the first Thanksgiving. No matter what one believes about the origins of this once humble winter squash, it is now a complex produce item with many uses. Although the colonists grew them strictly for food, today’s growers harvest pumpkins that fall mainly into four categories: carving pumpkins, pumpkins used for cooking, pumpkins intended for decorations, and giant specimens grown for exhibitions.
Hundreds of varieties are available, but surprisingly few cultivars serve more than one purpose. Pumpkins usually are purchased for a particular reason, and a savvy shopper knows that a hard-shell carving pumpkin isn’t the best choice for a pie. Some miniature pumpkins used as ornamentals also may be baked for individual servings, but only a few of the larger varieties cross over well. Novices purchasing a fresh pumpkin would do well to ask for assistance. A few questions at the farmers market might prevent a disaster.
Pumpkins are members of the gourd family, a horticultural grouping that includes watermelon and both summer and winter squash. Although the pumpkin is botanically a fruit, its culinary outlook broadens considerably if one is open-minded enough to consider it a vegetable. As such, it becomes versatile, substituting nicely in recipes specifying almost any winter squash. And if pumpkin is unavailable, butternut or buttercup squash may be used as a replacement in many recipes ranging from soup to pie.
The early fall harvest signals the beginning of the two most popular pumpkin occasions: Halloween and Thanksgiving. Between pumpkins grown for jack-o’-lanterns and those used for the requisite holiday pie, the two events are important to the industry. Carving pumpkins, cultivated to withstand contemporary decorating, are purchased by both serious carvers and those merely hoping to amuse the neighbors’ kids. As for pie, Libby’s alone claims
50 million pies every Thanksgiving and harvests more than 4,000 acres to supply its need for canned pumpkin. (Remember, there’s a difference between pure pumpkin and pumpkin pie filling. Check the recipe — and the label — closely.)
Whether one purchases a pumpkin to be baked at home or opts for the canned version, the pulp is rich in beta-carotene and potassium, and high in fiber. Pumpkins are also low in calories, but most of us negate that by enhancing the natural flavor with butter or cream.
The holiday season may seem like the best time to serve pumpkin, but many recipes can be used throughout the year. A few menu adjustments might be necessary, but most devotees would cheerfully eat pumpkin pie no matter the occasion.
Stuck in a household with no pumpkin pie fans, food writer Sidney Carlisle admits to baking one pie each fall to eat all by herself.
JACK-O’-LANTERNS
While jack-o’-lanterns may qualify as an early form of yard art, the whole business of carving a pumpkin is not what it used to be. A fat pumpkin with a snaggletoothed grin and triangular eyes is no longer sufficient to win the neighborhood’s best-in-show award. It might thrill the littlest trick-or-treaters, but a more sophisticated world of pumpkin carving exists for those with time and talent.
Choosing the right pumpkin is important. Not only are some designs very size-specific, but details like the pumpkin’s color and the thickness of the shell are critical. Serious carvers know exactly which pumpkin is required for a particular design, and selections are made way before the actual harvest. Although a pumpkin is perishable as a decoration, the orange canvas accepts both knife and paint, with embellishments like flowers, ribbons, or whatever else the artist chooses.
And forget using an old butcher knife to do the carving. Accomplished carvers use standard wood-carving tools and unique saws, scrapers, and drills developed to handle the pumpkin shells. Elaborate patterns are available that employ a punch method to ensure the design is followed exactly. Skill and patience are necessary.
Specialty lights, fog machines, and microphones can make the creation seem alive, scaring any size trick-or-treaters. Even the problem of musty, decaying jack-o’-lanterns has been solved.
A solution mixed from pickling agents has the ability to leave Jack looking spooky for days.
For the latest information on patterns, techniques, equipment, and frequently asked questions, visit our favorite carving site at www.jack-o-lantern.com. Click on “Gallery” and scroll through the photos for some great ideas.
BUYING PUMPKINS
Heirloom and hybrid pumpkin varieties are available direct from growers or from specialty produce markets. The following are among the best-known pumpkins.
“Atlantic Giant” is the premier cultivar grown for giant pumpkin contests.
“Connecticut Field” is an heirloom pumpkin with a reasonably hard shell that suited both carvers and bakers in years past. Improved varieties of this pumpkin are now selected mainly for carving.
“Jack Be Little” is an ornamental miniature and is a good pumpkin to bake.
“Lumina” is a carving pumpkin with white skin. Not only is it perfect for painted decorations, but when lighted properly produces an eerie jack-o’-lantern.
“Rouge Vif d’Etampes” is a flat French heirloom pumpkin thought to be the model for Cinderella’s coach. It’s a culinary pumpkin that also may be carved.
“Small Sugar” is also called the New England Pie pumpkin. It’s sweet, not too watery, and considered by many chefs to be the top pie pumpkin.
“Sweetie Pie” is a beautifully colored miniature pumpkin, frequently used for decorating.
PUMPKIN PIE
The best-known pumpkin pie must surely be the standard Libby’s recipe, conveniently printed on their cans of puréed pumpkin. The recipe is easy and has helped turn out millions of pies since Libby’s pumpkin appeared on grocery shelves in 1929. It has become standard holiday dessert fare.
A number of things can affect the quality of a pumpkin pie. The crust is always an issue, since it has a tendency to soften after the pie sits at room temperature for a couple of hours. Solutions vary. Some chefs prebake the crust, and others moisture-proof it by brushing an egg white and water glaze over the crust before the filling is added. Another method calls for baking the pie crust and filling in two separate pans, and then sliding the cooked filling into the beautifully baked crust. The theory makes sense in cookbooks, but on an already hectic holiday morning, few people can risk such a potential disaster.
Turning plain cooked pumpkin into pie is fairly simple. Since technically you are making a custard pie, most recipes call for just one bowl, and the cook needs only a spoon or whisk to blend the ingredients. No matter whose recipe is at hand, some combination of milk, eggs, sugar, and spices will be required. The biggest variances occur in milk and spices. Although some chefs swear by evaporated milk, many use whipping cream or heavy cream to enrich the filling. Spices vary by type and by amount. Nutmeg is supposed to enhance the flavor of pumpkin, but not everyone uses it. Those who do, usually add cinnamon and ginger along with the nutmeg. Those who don’t, combine cinnamon and ginger with a touch of cloves. Depending on the cook, the baked pie will be either light orange in color or a deeper shade that indicates a hefty dose of spices.
As with any custard pie, proper baking is important. The pie should be removed from the oven when the crust is golden, but before the center is completely set. Overbaking the pie may cause it to become watery or develop a crack across the surface. It’s best to bake the pie the minimum time specified in the recipe and check it by inserting a knife halfway between the center and the edge. If the knife comes out clean, remove the pie from the oven. The center of the filling will become firm as the pie cools.
While the finished pie may be served unadorned, many people feel compelled to dress it up. Extra touches include crunchy toppings, sweetened whipped cream, or pie crust cutouts in the shape of leaves.
No matter how it’s served, few cooks would consider the holidays complete without at least one pumpkin pie.
THE BANKERS CLUB PUMPKIN PIE
A classic recipe from executive chef Benjamin Arab of the Bankers Club in Miami.
1-1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons cold butter, cut in pieces
3 tablespoons cold shortening, cut in pieces
4 tablespoons cold water, approximately
1 can (15 ounces) 100 percent pure pumpkin
1 cup whipping cream
2 eggs
1-1⁄2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cloves
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons light corn syrup
For the crust, mix the flour and salt in a bowl. Cut in the butter and shortening with a fork or pastry blender until the mixture forms coarse crumbs. Stir in 3 tablespoons water, adding a bit more if needed to bind the dough. Gather into a ball, wrap in wax paper, and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Roll the dough into a 1⁄8 -inch-thick circle and line a 9-inch pie pan. Refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Prick the bottom and sides of the piecrust with a fork. Line the crust with a piece of slightly rumpled parchment paper or foil (shiny side down) and fill with pie weights. Bake 12 minutes, remove the weights and foil, and bake about 5 minutes more. Remove the piecrust from the oven and lower the temperature to 375 degrees.
For the filling, whisk together the pumpkin, whipping cream, and eggs. In a separate bowl, combine the sugar, spices, and salt, blending well. Add to the pumpkin mixture and add the corn syrup, mixing well. Pour into the piecrust and bake until set, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack.
GINGER LOVER'S PUMPKIN PIE
Garnish this pie from the Crescent Club in Memphis with whipped cream and thin shreds of crystallized ginger.
1-1⁄2 cups gingersnap cookie crumbs (see note)
1⁄3 cup butter, melted
2 eggs
1⁄2 cup dark brown sugar
1⁄2 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cloves
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1 can (15 ounces) 100 percent pure pumpkin
2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 cup evaporated milk
For the crust, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Measure the cookie crumbs into a bowl and pour the melted butter over the crumbs. Work the mixture together with a fork until the crumbs begin to stick together. Pour into a 9-inch glass or ceramic pie pan and distribute evenly over the bottom and up the sides. Bake 8 minutes, remove from the oven and let the crust cool.
For the filling, preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Beat the eggs until frothy. Add both sugars. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and salt. Add to the sugar mixture. Whisk in the pumpkin and fresh ginger. Add the melted butter and whisk in the milk last. Pour into the cooled crust.
Bake on the middle oven shelf for 12 minutes. Decrease the heat to 350 degrees and bake 30 to 40 minutes, until the middle is just set. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack.
Note: For the gingersnap crumbs, break the cookies into chunks and process into fine crumbs in a blender or food processor.
PORK STUFFED PUMPKIN
An old family recipe from executive chef Gail Reppel of the affliate City Energy Club in New Orleans.
1 small pumpkin, 6 to 7 inches in diameter, or 4 miniature pumpkins
1 pound lean ground pork
1⁄2 cup minced onion
1 cup mashed potatoes
salt and pepper
ground thyme
ground allspice
fresh thyme for garnish
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Cut the top off the pumpkin (as if you were making a jack-o’-lantern) and remove the seeds. Place the pumpkin in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and set it aside.
Brown the pork and the onion in a sauté pan. When no trace of pink remains, drain and discard about half of the accumulated fat. (A couple of tablespoons of fat are needed to help bind the stuffing. If the pork is very lean, it may not be necessary to drain it at all.) Use a spatula to fold the mashed potatoes and pork together. Season to taste with the salt, pepper, thyme, and allspice.
Fill the pumpkin with the pork mixture and replace the lid. Add 1⁄2 inch of water to the pan holding the pumpkin. Bake 1 hour to 11⁄2 hours, until a butter knife can be easily inserted into the pumpkin. Reduce baking time for miniature pumpkins.
To serve, remove and discard the lid. Cut the pumpkin into wedges and garnish with fresh thyme.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.
PUMPKIN RISOTTO
This elegant risotto recipe from the Crescent Club in Memphis can be served with Herb Roasted Chicken, or alone as an appetizer.
3 cups 1-inch cubed, peeled pumpkin (see note)
2 tablespoons butter
4 shallots, finely chopped
5 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups arborio rice
3 threads saffron
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon chopped
fresh sage
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Wrap the cubed pumpkin in foil and place on a baking sheet. Bake 30 to 40 minutes, or until tender when pierced with a fork. Cool slightly and purée in a blender or food processor. Set the pumpkin aside.
Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the shallots and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. In a separate pan, bring the stock to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer.
Add 1⁄4 cup of the white wine to the shallots and cook 1 minute. Add the rice to the shallots and cook about 3 minutes over medium heat, stirring frequently. Add the remaining wine and the saffron. Cook, stirring constantly, until all the liquid has been absorbed. Add the pumpkin and 1 cup of the stock. Stir constantly until the stock has been absorbed. Continue to add a 1⁄2 cup of stock at a time, stirring until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is cooked, about 15 minutes. (If the rice is not tender by the time the stock is absorbed, a small amount of hot water may be added to the pan.)
Stir in the heavy cream. The risotto should be thick and creamy and just a little runny. Remove it from the heat and stir in the sage. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Note: If fresh pumpkin is unavailable, butternut squash may be substituted. Choose a squash weighing about 11⁄2 pounds. Canned pumpkin does not substitute well in this recipe.
PUMPKIN EMPANADAS
These delicately spiced Mexican pastries are perfect desserts for a holiday buffet. This recipe is from the author’s kitchen.
PASTRY
2 cups all-purpose flour
1⁄2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 cup solid vegetable shortening
2 teaspoons white vinegar
5 tablespoons cold water, approximately
Combine the flour, nutmeg, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Work the shortening into the flour mixture, using a pastry blender or two knives. Mix the vinegar and water together and add it to the mixture 1 tablespoon at a time, tossing lightly with a fork to moisten the flour particles. Add another teaspoon or 2 of water if needed, but use only enough to hold the dough together. Shape into a rough ball and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for 1 hour.
FILLING
2 tablespoons butter
2⁄3 cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1⁄2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
pinch of salt
1 can (15 ounces)
100 percent pure pumpkin
2 tablespoons milk
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Melt the butter in a small saucepan. Combine the brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt, and add to the butter. Whisk in the pumpkin, mixing well. Heat the filling until very warm, but do not boil. Cool to room temperature.
When ready to assemble the empanadas, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease two baking sheets with vegetable shortening and set them aside.
Divide the pastry into two pieces. Roll the first piece into a thin (1⁄8-inch thick) circle or rectangle. Use a 31⁄2- or 4-inch cookie cutter and cut out as many shapes as will fit. Re-roll the dough scraps and cut again. Repeat with the remaining piece of dough.
Place a scant tablespoon of filling on each dough shape. Moisten the edges lightly with water and fold in half, pressing lightly to seal the edge. Crimp the edge with a fork and place on a baking sheet. Brush each empanada lightly with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake about 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool on wire racks. The empanadas may be served warm or at room temperature.
Yield: 24 small pastries.
PUMPKIN GINGER BISQUE
This rich bisque is a favorite of executive chef Paul Ramsey at Pinehurst in the Village of Pinehurst, North Carolina.
2 tablespoons walnut or vegetable oil
3⁄4 cup chopped shallots
1⁄2 cup chopped onion
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups chicken broth
1⁄2 cup apple cider
1 can (15 ounces)
100 percent pure pumpkin
1⁄3 cup maple syrup
2 bay leaves
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves
1⁄4 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed
1⁄4 teaspoon pepper
1 cup whipping cream, plus additional for garnish (optional)
1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla
fresh thyme sprigs for garnish (optional)
Heat the oil in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallots, onion, and ginger, and cook until softened but not brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in the flour. Add the chicken broth and cider all at once. Cook and stir over medium heat until thickened and bubbly, about 10 minutes. Stir in the pumpkin, maple syrup, bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves, dried thyme, and pepper. Return the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat, and cover the pan. Simmer 20 minutes.
Remove from the heat and discard the bay leaves. Cool slightly. Use a food processor or blender to purée the soup in three or four batches. Return the soup to the saucepan. Stir in 1 cup whipping cream and the vanilla. Heat through but do not allow the soup to return to a boil.
To serve, swirl whipping cream into each serving and garnish with fresh thyme.
Yield: 8 cups. |
