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Pastimes : Brewing, beers and the good old days

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To: maceng2 who wrote (71)	1/17/2002 8:05:41 PM
From: maceng2	Read Replies (1) of 123

In my previous msg... I am talking about Malt extract [dark brown viscous sticky liquid] not malt [crushed malted barley grains] it's self. I use malt, but it's a more complicated process (called a "full mash process") extracting and converting the sugers. The recipe given is for a "full mash process" (using actual malt). I would suggest a beginner use either standard pale malt extract, or diastaic pale malt extract as a first try using a partial mash process. You need to purchase (or manufacture) a mash tun to do a full mash process. A "Partial mash process" is much simpler. So 10 pounds of "pale ale malt" could be substituted with 7.5 pounds of diasatic malt extract EDME DMS. Remember it needs to keep for 30 minutes at 66 (below 70 max) deg C for 30 mins before boiling. This also means you don't have to "sparge" it or aerate it. Just add cold water to make up to 5 gals. The cold water is handy because it helps cool the wort and also adds water with oxygen in it. [boiled water (wort) removes all dissolved air]. The wort will need to be cooled after boiling, I use a custom made cooler, but have it covered and leave it outside to cool itself. On reaching 70 deg F add yeast starter. For 24 to 48 hrs nothing seems to happen. That's cause the yeast is multiplying aerobically, when it has used up all the dissolved oxygen, it then respires anaerobically producing the yeast head and alcohol. If this works to satisfaction a couple of times, you may then progress to a full mash process using actual malt. The link I gave you has a design of a good 5 gal tun made from two 5 gal primary fermentors. The "mash" is performed in an insulated plastic dustbin. It works very well, as described in the book.

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