he'enalu
or
Surfing
A short stretch on the pineapple way.
by Graystone
We
choose to exist,
common to every one of us.
We ride the waves, surfing.
An old Hawaiian practice, he'enalu.
Each and every one of us is wave,
the ocean we surf, made of waves.
As we surf, we are surfed.
Surface, where the wave meets the surfer
Surface, where the surfer meets the wave
Every wave makes the surf,
All the waves make the ocean.
Living on a white sand beach,
Hard grains, immutable, obdurate.
Under the sun, a a tapestry of
sky, sand and ocean
in motion
changing
An old Hawaiian practice, he'enalu
Inspiration credit to National Geographic, December 2002, The Hawaiians |
