The kids--all of them, Californians, Irish, Vietnamese--all very cute on their borrowed boards. That said, I am not too keen to see Miriel on a surfboard. I will introduce her to sailboarding I think (if I can still get up onto one, ha!) I learned how to do it a little bit one summer--somehow I did not get hooked on it, though it was quite a thrill.
Interestingly, some people just seem to get hooked on these sports--whether it be on snowboards, sailboards, or surfboards.
And it would make for a good paper--the neurologic phenotype of the surfer, no? (put image of knockout surfing rat here, sacraficed by really big wave).
Setting the foolishness aside now. It was a good warning to have the quadriplegic fellow in the movie. It did not take anything away from the beauty of the sport, and the kindness of his friends was very touching.
I put Billabong Odyssey in my queue--is this the one you said to avoid because of Laird Hamilton narration? |