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Pastimes : Books, Movies, Food, Wine, and Whatever

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From: S. maltophilia	1/20/2023 5:26:42 PM
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Opinion Guest Essay Foodie Fever Dreams Can’t Keep Restaurants Afloat Jan. 20, 2023 Credit...Debora Szpilman DEEP RUN, N.C. — When René Redzepi announced he would close Noma, his Michelin three-star restaurant/ work camp in Copenhagen, food magazines and newspapers treated the inability to run a profitable business as Mr. Redzepi’s problem. That is, a problem that emerges only when you call your kitchen a lab and your cooks will work without pay, just to have your name on their résumé. But extremist fine dining’s challenges are just the amuse-bouche in a multicourse menu of the rotting state of the restaurant business. A large part of the hospitality industry is ravaged, thanks to the pandemic and its fallout. Even spots that pivoted through the initial crisis were soon suffocated by labor shortages or a mucked-up supply chain. But restaurants were struggling with losses in staffing, momentum and revenue long before 2020. The pandemic merely made obvious the archaic and limited nature of our gerbil wheel of a business...... nytimes.com [no paywall]

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