Hey, Janko, happy to see you here again!
We was at diner with "Avencio". Avencio's family was fishing in ancient times. When we was surfing here a lot of years ago, we had a beautiful, warm day. Ronald, a friend of mine, and me went surf in the late afternoon.
It was the first day we went surf, so we took a great sail and enjoyed the day even if only a light wind moved our boards and us.
However, there's always a stream from the waves, drawing out of the bay at both sides.
When the evening came, we was unable to cross high enough for coming back into the bay against this stream.
The wind slept in. The water was flat like a mirror. The heaven burned in all colors. And we both slid, driven by a light stream, helpless without wind, out of the bay.
Two hours later, when it was always dark, we saw the headlights of cars on the mountains at the end of the bay, searching for us.
Finally a light moved from the small port up to us. It was one of these old, heavy fisherboats, slowly beating "tuck-tuck-tuck" with his old engine.
They came and brought us back home - two guys of Avencios family.
Since we visit this island, a lot of surfers lost their lifes - it's very dangerous when you drive out of the bay. We knew a surf-teacher here, who lost his live at seven wind, driving out of the bay.
Some don't come back without high waves and without wind - the next day you're out between the islands, you're cold and tired, the wind comes up, the waves are huge and you goes under or enjoy the jaws.
This year, when we went first time to Avencio, I asked him - he could not remembert the story. The same bay. The same restaurant. The same people - forgotten histories.
K. took Mejillones, me - again - chipirones. And this delicious vino blanco seco "cueva del viento". One more good day. Nobody will ever remember this but K. and me. That's it. |
