There are a number of outfits in the Lower California peninsula, commonly referred as "Baja". (please try to say the J like a Latino, not like in "Baha").
These are known as "Eco-Turismo" organizations. Along the lines of "Photographic Safaris".
They have camps in Laguna San Ignacio, about three-quarters down the Baja peninsula, where you can go watch and touch the Gray Whales.
The best time to go is late February Early March, they take you to their camp in Laguna San Ignacio, where the Grey Whale winters and has their babies.
2 years ago I went there, the organization rents a twin motor airplane, seating 7 plus the pilot, (I sat in the co-pilot seat and the pilot generously allowed me to pilot it, on the way down and back to Ensenada), after a quick set of instructions since I had never pilot a plane. The flight takes about 1.5 to 2 hours or so, flying the plane felt as it only took 10 minutes each way.
I remember stopping for refueling only on the way up, (I do not recall doing so on the way down, maybe I was too concentrated in what I was doing).
We flew at around 9000 feet, he showed me how to go higher and lower, how to "yaw" the plane, (I think yaw is the term, as in going sideways), and then how to turn it, then he said to me, just follow the coast line and don't go astray. The plane was incredibly sensitive, particularly on the way down (I think this is due to the winds too, and the fact that I was new to this.)
As we approached for landing he let me take the plane down to about 4500 feet, at this point the pilot would take over, and would start descending faster, as soon as we hit around 3500 or 4000 feet the difference in air temperature, made the airplane simply go every which way, this pilot was a young guy, about 22 but he was damned good, he was flying that thing sideways, at some point as the turbulence was incredible, but he very coolly and efficiently landed the plane with zero problems, either he was good, or he was a good actor.
Anyway, you land in the middle of the desert, close to the Laguna, where the camp is. A van picks you up and takes you to the camp, where you have access to a tent, where you sleep.
The camp facilities although Spartan, in some aspects, the food is superb! For example, everyday fresh water in 5 gallon bags are laid on the ground to heat the water (via the sun), then you are given ONE, go to the "shower palapa" a small cubicle covered with palms branches, you hang the bag and take your shower.
However, the food is the best !! real home made Mexican food, different menu everyday, the best beer, etc. food is truly five star, then at around 10:00 or 10:30 AM you are taken on a power boat to "watch and touch the whales". There must be about 300 mother/baby pairs in the Lagoon or more, the experience is phenomenal, as the big Grey whales approach the boats gently and encourage the young ones to "touch the humans".
From time to time you can see the great big animals jump up and splash back into the lagoon, sometimes they stick their big tail up in the air and remain there for a few seconds.
As I was filming all this, I noticed three whales playing and splashing around about 150 yards out or so, the whole thing took about 5-10 minutes or so, when it was all done, the guide, (who was watching me film all this), asked me, did you film all that ? I said yes, then he asked me do you know what they where doing ? I said no, so he says to me they were mating....
He said that the third whale acts as "support to lean on" so the mating can be accomplished.
One of the other passengers says, yes, I thought so because I saw this "long pink thing"... (I am color blind, so I can not notice minor hues, particularly reddish and or green, at a distance). So the guide says, correct, that was the penis. he said to me that I should give this film to National Geographic or something... I said, well I will go home and enjoy it again, (which I did, and yes you can see "the long pink thing".
The boats return at around 4:00 PM, the winds begin to pick up and they won't stop until about 6:00 or 7:00 AM. You must have the ability to sleep soundly under these conditions as the winds are rather loud, particularly considering that you are sleeping in a tent.
The sun exposure, wind, excitement etc. get you very tired, remember this is the desert, and it is still wintertime, so you have extreme temperatures between say 2:00 PM and about 4:00 AM, it is also extremely dry.
This is the time they hand you your water bag and go for your shower. After which, you are extremely hungry, and go to the main "Palapa" where the dining facilities are. As I said the food is plentiful and delicious.
Then there is still some time left for some walking along the beach, if you still have the energy, but it is worth it as there are some interesting water inlets with incredible birds and cranes. The sunsets are also out of this world.
A nearby desert called "Desierto del Viscaino" is one of the driest on earth, I went there, with one of the guides, and he explained to me that the sea water sips in from underneath, and then as the water recedes it leaves the salt, which creates very large salt flats (there is salt about one or more feet deep as far as I could see in the horizon).
One day, we returned from the whale watching a little earlier, and drove a few kilometers to a natural salt field, on the way there, we passed a tiny (I mean tiny) town, the guide told me that is where he lived most of the time, showed me the local school and saw the desolation and harshness of this... still beautiful place. It was part of the experience.
He explained that there is an intended industrial project that would build a gigantic Salt production facility nearby. The locals are not too happy about it, in spite of the possible progress (and jobs), that would bring to the area. I believe they understand that it would destroy, (as it has in the town of Guerrero Negro to the north), the natural habitat of the whales.
I was not part of the group that you can read about here, however, when I saw the pictures of the camp, the boats etc. they were the same guides as the ones I went with, at least they look identical to where I stayed in, the color of the boat and name are the same. Take a look:
nrdc.org
If you are interested in more info about the Viscaino Desert, salt production facilities project and its influence on Laguna San Ignacio
you can find info here:
orf.org
From there click on:
Mitsubishi / ESSA Salt Mining in Mexican Biosphere
Anyway, the trip was an incredible experience, and enjoyed every minute of it, (obviously flying the plane was a highlight, as I am a speed maniac of sorts), but I certainly enjoyed the rest of the trip.
Finally, some Baja Cuisine recipes:
bajanet.com
bajanet.com
bajanet.com
bajanet.com |
