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To: surfbaron who wrote (95103)3/2/2001 1:06:07 PM
From: waverider  Read Replies (1) | Respond to of 152472
 
It was in Del Mar...around 6:30 in the morning...fall. Just me and my buddy. No one else was out. Offshore breeze. Around that little reef. Swells were coming in and looked like courdoroy. AND I JUST GOT MY NEW 6'8" board. A nice right came in, I caught it. The water was pure virgin...smooth glass inspite of the offshore. About a 5-6 footer I think. Never got barreled but I did ride her all the way in...I didn't have the heart to kick out. I swear I felt like I was on her for an hour...

I sat on the beach afterwards and just watched the surf. I dunno, it wasn't all that big or fancy...but my ride was perfect for me. I'll never forget it.

Bodi