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Pastimes : Computer Learning -- Ignore unavailable to you. Want to Upgrade?

To: dave rose who wrote (19305)	4/30/2001 9:49:06 PM
From: tanstfl	Respond to of 110652

Hi Dave, I emailed the software and instructions for it. The MIDI cables are for connecting the keyboard to a MIDI device and actually playing once you know how. I don't believe that the keyboard gets the kind of information from the MIDI to use the instructional software package. I'm not sure how much you know about MIDI, but there is control information and data information and the port would be useful to actually play the keyboard and have the other MIDI device receive the MIDI codes (for example the computer record the MIDI OUT codes) for composition or later playback. The MIDI IN would be for things like setting it to jazz, harpsichord, etc. There is no driver per se in the sense of a traditional windows device driver; there is a program that communicates with the keyboard over the serial port to teach one how to play. In fact, as I said previously, you cannot connect the MIDI cables and the serial cable at the same time. So in essence, there are two modes. The one through the serial port is for interactive instruction where the computer gives you instructions and then monitors what you do on the keyboard. The other mode is for the MIDI connection where you can take a program like Cakewalk (or the upgrade called Sonar) and record music as you play it as a MIDI sequence and/or send a MIDI sequence to the keyboard to verify/change how it sounds. I'll check out the serial cable and hopefully determine that it is null or straight through and then look for a staples item number. Best, Steve Edit: I'm assuming there is just one model. You'd have a terrible time if there's a model without a serial port on the back <g>.

To: dave rose who wrote (19305)	4/30/2001 10:41:04 PM
From: tanstfl	Respond to of 110652

Hi Again, Well, it's not a straight thru cable and it's not a pure null cable (It's molded plastic that says Miracle on it). I'll have to get a hold of a multimeter tomorrow and ID the configuration. Hopefully, they don't have any triple jumpered pins on the DB25 side. (If you're not a big fan of building custom cables, ask your brother in law what he did with the original <g>). Best, Steve

To: dave rose who wrote (19305)	5/1/2001 8:24:32 PM
From: tanstfl	Respond to of 110652

Hi Dave, I got the pinout figured out. Been a while since I worked with a breakout box and a multimeter. It's pretty simple, although it sounds a little tricky. It's a straight thru DB9F to DB25M serial cable. On the DB25 side; pull pin#1 and replace it with pin#4 and then jumper pin#4 to pin#14 and pin#15 (Pin #1 remains unused). (Ignore this part in parenthesis unless something doesn't work. Now I don't actually have a pin #1 on my breakout box so I've jumpered pins 4, 14, and 15 to the metal shell case of the DB25 hood.) Again, it's really a simple job. Took me about 90 min to figure the pins (I'm slow) and 5 minutes to do the cable. Good luck, Steve