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Gold/Mining/Energy : Gold Price Monitor -- Ignore unavailable to you. Want to Upgrade?

To: the_wheel who wrote (71530)	6/11/2001 9:10:29 PM
From: CuriousGeorge	Respond to of 116758

Here is my opinion FWIW .... Probably you should have a combo of bullion coins, rare coins, and pm stocks. Bullion goes up with the price of the metal, immediately. Rare coins will take more time, all the things being equal. However generic rare coins have more leverage during a bull market, for example, gold goes up 50% to $425, (we can dream); and your rare coins may double, the important word being MAY. Buy only PCGS, if a dealer tells you NCG is equal to PCGS, run away. I would, am, will buy PCGS ms64 and ms65 generic St Gaudens; and MS65/MS66 generic Morgan silver dollars. Those are safe, really rare coins, you better know what is hot. When gold breaks $400, there will be lines around the coin store, and the people will be buying, for the most part, St Gaudens and Morgans. Shop around and haggle! Most dealers will pay shipping, and there is usually no sales tax on orders over $1000. Good luck, CG

To: the_wheel who wrote (71530)	6/11/2001 10:27:01 PM
From: IngotWeTrust	Respond to of 116758

Hi and welcome. You ask: Is there any difference between PCGS and NCG grading? Depends upon who you ask and which ones they have in inventory, which seems to slant the answer you will receive from whatever coin seller you happen to be dealing with. One has a slightly longer history of slabbing coins. I do my own grading, so I criticize both 3rd party graders. The most remarkable difference is in the ability to sell back at a premium if you have made significant profit on a slabbed coin: PCGS is "easier to sell," sight unseen, for top dollar, in most cases. It isn't because they have the strongest graders, but because they have the most elaborate and widely disseminated marketing thrust. I dont understand the grading, is 70 perfect??? is there such a thing? Grade 70 is as close to perfect as a mechanical milling process can possibly stamp a specially polished planchet. In theory, only proof coins and "presentation pieces" qualify for the 70 grade. Would it be better to get better grade and rarer coins vs more lesser value coins? I know this is a hard question, but I am wondering if maybe collectors want only the best of the best ie a really good Proof modern only and treat the rest as bullion? Depends upon your investment plan and goals. If your gold is to make money, then the fewer/rarer is the way to go. The definition of bullion fluctuates around intrinsic value of whatever you have purchased. The premium assigned is based upon condition, mintage, condition, mint mark, condition, strike, condition, condition, condition. ... I guess I wonder if I should just buy for example 24K maple leaf as close to $268 as possible or get an MS69 or PR69 2001 or a MS63 or MS64 1908? Assuming you goal is "gold asset appreciation," why is it that you've limited yourself to those 3 choices? Is that all available dealer has in his inventory? I'm unclear as to what the plan is here, your time horizon, your criteria for selecting gold coins. Don't know that I've helped much. If you've been working with that dealer for a while and s/he has a good reputation, allow him or her to educate you, and keep your wallet in your pocket until you know some more. Bob Johnson's goldsheetlinks.com has a pretty good link to numismatic information. There shouldn't be any hurry to accumulate either bullion gold coins or rare gold coins at this time. The charts of both categories basically show that neither are going anywhere fast, let alone soon. If your goal is asset appreciation, if this goal can be met with coins, if this goal can be met with any type of coin, instead of just gold coins, if you have a firm time frame in mine over which you seek asset appreciation, then there is a whole big numismatic world out there from which to chose. All the best. gold_tutor