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Pastimes : NNBM - SI Branch -- Ignore unavailable to you. Want to Upgrade?

To: Clappy who wrote (15464)	7/12/2002 1:43:57 PM
From: Mannie	Respond to of 104155

Great Clappy, enjoy the process. fitting a stone wall together can be very therapeutic and very fun. <The wall will be approx 2 1/2 - 3 feet tall. Can I make it approx. 1 foot in depth (thick, that is) or should it be thicker?> If you are going to build a purely dry stacked wall and you wish it to be one foot thick that the top, I would build the base about 18" wide and taper both side up to 12" at the top. That will be stable. Also what we do a lot is build the stack ed wall and use plywood or masonite to create a form about 6" behind the wall...as you build up the wall, you pour concrete behind. Resulting in dry stack look, with the stability of a concrete wall. I will show you some pictures as soon as I can.. <I may use mortar to hold the top layer of stones in place. Good idea or bad?> Excellent idea, I always do this. Your boys will be climbing and running around on top of the wall and you don't want a stone to give way.. < Should I use some sort of gravel behind the wall or just back fill with dirt.> It is always a good idea to backfill with a good drain gravel, you can run a slotted ADS drain line at the base of the back side to carry the drainage off to where you wish to go. <When mortaring the steps, do you know if your guys add something to the concrete to help prevent it from cracking in the cold of winter? Does the concrete base (under each step) have to be thick or would an inch be sufficient?> We don't use an additive, but I wouldn't pour concrete much less than 3" thick or else it will break up eventually. You might want to just pour a rough angled slab to work over, using a lot of mortar to float the stones. Use stone on the face of the stair so you are not seeing concrete as you look at the stair.. Hope that gets you started, feel free to fire me questions. Maybe post some pictures so I can take a look... scoot