To: Augustus Gloop who wrote (2358 ) 3/24/2003 12:27:04 PM From: Karen Lawrence Read Replies (1) | Respond to of 21614 From Cuba Daniel Swift and Turi Munthe Havana Cuba does two things: anti-imperialism and cigars. Saddam had his revolution in 1979, twenty years after Cuba's, and since then he's been kept in presidential cigars by the man everyone here simply calls "Fidel." In Granma, the state paper, named after the boat Fidel used to return to Cuba from exile, the war on Iraq is "La Agresion Yanki Contra Iraq." This morning's Juventud Rebelde leads "Bush comenzo la masacre." If the enemy of my enemy is my friend, Cuba and Iraq are natural allies. In theory, but not in the streets. In La Bodeguita del Medio, home of Hemingway's Mojitos, the old men are still singing the old songs about old Havana. We asked the hookers, the cigar sellers, the waiters in white linen, and the policemen in their felt caps what they thought about the war. In most cases they asked us back: "What war?" Havana is an island, and if they're talking about a war, they're still talking about La Revolucíon. In El Patio, the bar opposite the Catedral San Cristobal, there's a man who pops his eyeball out for tourists. We asked him what he thought of the war. He said, "Malo, muy malo." Why? The Americans want to own it all." All of what? "Cuba." There are Americans too, and they're not here to make a stand. Wit from LA came "to experience not to judge." He's chasing Che, and a Norwegian girl he met in his hotel pool last night. Fifteen thousand antiwar protesters are expected at the US embassy tomorrow morning at eight. We asked Maria, a journalist at Granma, why and what they're protesting. She couldn't tell us; "The walls have ears," she said. We were sitting in an open square, a hundred yards from any wall