To: Elmer Flugum who wrote (3131 ) 5/13/2004 11:04:27 PM From: gg cox Read Replies (1) | Respond to of 36917 Well the installation of Bosch water on demand, or tankless hot water heater, is now complete.astravan.com I had to install half inch plywood to basement stud wall in order to hang the unit. It is supposed to hang from two hooks which they provide, but found them to be "Mickey" so used two lag bolts with washers instead.The reason for it not being tied down tight to plywood was that it expands and contracts when in use( 130,000 BTU,s). To tie in the hot and cold water pipes to the unit, it has removable "s" pipes on hot and cold sides, so most of the soldering can be done on the" workmate" and "head" soldered pipes over to hot and cold pipes for final tie in. There is a pressure relief valve that must be tied in close to the unit on the hot water side. I found as an amature plumber that if threads are close to the joint you are sweating, apply the solder so it is sucked "up" into the joint, if you do it downhill the solder follows the melted flux into the threads..not good<<gg>>The heater plugs in to any 110 V outlet, which provides power for the blower fan, about 3 amps, which exhausts the gas. The vent pipe that I had to buy was 4 inch "b" vent (double walled) and should be no longer than 15 feet and hooks on to flapper vent which comes thru basement wall. To make the hole in the basement wall I rented a hammer drill with a 2 foot long concrete bit ($20.00), drew a 5 inch diameter circle and drilled a series of half inch holes around the circumference and knocked the plug out with a hammer, plan carefully and measure closely as you only want to do it once, the "b" vent comes in various sizes, smaller ones 1,2 and 3 feet so if you have not measured correctly, the size choice will bail you out or you can pull the two lag bolts and shift the unit sideways to make the final fit ..save final plumbing for last. As for the natural gas hook up I will not tell what i did specifically, but generally..I was warned ahead of time that the unit needs a lot of gas(when it needs gas!) and should have a minimum 3/4 inch black gas pipe going to within a few feet of it. It does now ...I tried running 35 feet of flexible ½ inch copper tubing, but the gas flow is restricted so did not work as well. There is other flexible stainless steel gas pipe available but expensive, but would cut down on labor. Before this heater was installed i did a test with the old hot water tank. Our shower was furthest from the hot water tank, so ran the shower until I got hot water and measured the cold water that was wasted until i got hot....4 point 3 litres...With the new unit 3 litres is wasted. So everytime the pipes are cold and i need hot water I am saving 1.3 litres of water and that is 1.3 litres that I am not heating, to add to the benefits of not having a pilot light burning 24/7 and the annual cost of maintaining 40 gals of water at 120 degrees F when not needed, also the chimney for the hot water tank was eliminated probably saving much household heat up that pipe.( I thought that I would be saving more than 1.3 litres as I moved the Bosch much closer to appliances than before but I guess there is a few litres sitting in the unit which must pas thru on start up) If anyone is thinking you can run several appliances that need hot water at the same time with this unit think again…It does not work. It will supply hot water for showers , one right after the other and you willl never run out of hot water for shower or anything else ..one at atime.. We are on a well so the water coming into the house is probably much colder than being on city water, so was thinking of some way of economically preheating the water with waste water like this example.. Message 19800211 or running incoming cold water by those hot exhaust gases..maybe I’ll stick one of those baby’s in the B vent ?? somehow. Or around the ..no around a single wall section in the b vent ..any suggestions? gg Replace that guzzler now Caroma is the way <<gg>>cmhc-schl.gc.ca