Washington: Hail to the Chief! And the City He Lives In
By JENNIFER 8. LEE
hy Go Now
Because this is where the power is. This bluest-of-the-blue city may have given President Bush a paltry 9 percent of its vote, but this week it rolls out the red carpet for his second inaugural. You don't have to be a Republican to appreciate the pomp of the swearing-in on Jan. 20, although hard-core Democrats might want to visit some other week (or wait four years) given the Republican gloating that pervades political circles.
Why go? Because the reasons not to have gently receded in recent years, spurred by Mayor Anthony A. Williams's focus on revitalizing downtown Washington. Prostitutes and crack houses have given way to professional couples, quirky boutiques and ethnic fusion restaurants.
Where to Stay
In recent years, the city has experienced a miniboom in trendy boutique hotels - though some residents are still irked by the absence of a W. (1) The Topaz Hotel, 1733 N Street NW, (800) 424-2950, www.topazhotel.com; (2) Hotel Rouge, 1315 16th Street NW, (800) 738-1202, www.rougehotel.com; (3) Hotel Monaco, 700 F Street NW, (800) 649-1202, www.monaco-dc.com; and (4) Hotel Helix, 1430 Rhode Island Avenue NW, (800) 706-1202, www.hotelhelix.com, all offer colorful, idiosyncratic rooms, though they're owned by the same company: Kimpton Hotels. The starting rates also vary: usually $119 to $169, for the inauguration they are $319 to $409, with minimum stays required.
Washington also has a ready supply of charming historic hotels over an extensive price range, including the luxurious (5) Hay Adams, 1 Lafayette Square, (202) 638-6600, www.hayadams.com, with its close proximity to the White House. Rooms start at $495 and suites go to $5,800. (6) The St. Regis Hotel, 923 16th Street NW, (202) 638-2626, www.stregis.com/washington, is where Washington's political journalists gather regularly for on-the-record group breakfast discussions with notable politicians. Rooms go for $265 to $495, suites $620 to $3,500.
(7) The Tabard Inn, 1739 N Street NW, (202) 785-1277, www.tabardinn.com, is one of Washington's best-kept lodging secrets - 40 old-fashioned rooms featuring wrought-iron beds that start as low as $86 a night for a single (with a shared bath).
(8) The Hilton Washington, 1919 Connecticut Avenue NW, (202) 483-3000, www.hilton.com, is referred to as the Hinckley Hilton (to distinguish it from the dozen other Hiltons in the Washington area) for being the site of John Hinckley's assassination attempt on President Ronald Reagan in 1981. Its hulking semicircular exterior evokes a Jetsons aesthetic, but its size is what also makes it a favorite for black-tie events, including the annual White House Correspondents Dinner. Rooms start at $130.
Where to Eat
Where else would Terry McAucliffe, the departing chairman of the Democratic National Committee, buy a drink for Vice President Dick Cheney? The boisterous (9) Cafe Milano, 3251 Prospect Street NW, (202) 333-6183, www.cafemilanodc.com, has fashioned a reputation as the gathering spot for the political elite and visiting celebrities (a reputation due more to slavish service than an inspiring menu). Keep an eye on the four tables along the wall opposite the bar. Their visible and central location at this Euro-trendy Georgetown restaurant makes them a favorite of the status-conscious. Dinner with wine, appetizer and dessert will run about $60 to $80 a person.
Situated halfway between Capitol Hill and the White House, the swank (10) Signatures, 801 Pennsylvania Avenue NW, (202) 628-5900, www.signatures-dc.com, is a popular draw for lobbyists, Justice Department officials and the staff members of the Republican leadership (especially those working for the majority leader, Tom Delay of Texas). Look for politicos on Tuesday, when the fusion sushi creations (ceviche-style shrimp and papaya, toasted bagel and asparagus) are half price in the bar and lounge. Dinner is typically $50 to $70 a person.
Unlike most old American cities, Washington has almost no critical mass of ethnic white immigrants to give it a distinct culinary legacy. Ethiopians have filled that gap, opening up restaurants, coffee shops and specialty markets in Adams Morgan and along U Street. Notables include (11) Dukem, 14-18 U Street NW, (202) 667-8735, where Ethiopians eat Ethiopian food, and the more atmospheric (12) Meskerem, 2434 18th Street NW, (202) 462-4100, where non-Ethiopians eat Ethiopian food (dinner at either is $20 to $30 a person).
What to Do During the Day
If you want to nuzzle beers alongside the young Congressional staff members who are the low-paid workhorses of the democratic process, go to any number of Capitol Hill bars for the early evening happy hours. Almost all feature drink or food specials to attract budget-minded young professionals. The bipartisan (13) Hawk 'n' Dove, 329 Pennsylvania Avenue SE, (202) 543-3300, has cheap domestic beers. (14) The Capitol Lounge, 229 Pennsylvania Avenue SE, (202) 547-2098, has 10-cent wings on Tuesday.
In a city where taxpayer dollars keep most museums free, a $14 general admission to the (15) International Spy Museum, 800 F Street NW, (202) 393-7798, www.spymuseum.org, stings. But the well-executed (albeit kitschy) presentations are informative, including a special exhibit, "The Enemy Within: Terror in America - 1776 to Today," which costs $4 extra (or $5 for the exhibit alone).
What to Do At Night
For the best chance of spotting a Bush twin in her natural habitat, head toward (16) Smith Point in Georgetown, 1338 Wisconsin Avenue NW, (202) 333-9003, a preppy underground joint down a musty staircase that has made its reputation as a favored hangout for Jenna and Barbara Bush (with the Secret Service in tow). They've also been spotted with friends at the chic and sleek (17) Cafe Asia, 1720 I Street NW, (202) 659-2696, four blocks from the White House.
The U Street Corridor, historically the spine of African-American culture in Washington, is one of the few points where White Washington meets Black Washington. Familiarize yourself with the faces of up-and-coming Democratic operatives at the faux-Western bar (18) Stetsons, 1610 U Street NW, (202) 667-6295, or the more stylish (19) Local 16, 1602 U Street NW, (202) 265-2828.
Having survived the 1968 riots and encroaching gentrification, (20) Ben's Chili Bowl, 1213 U Street NW, (202) 667-0909, www.benschilibowl.com, remains Washington's quintessential place for a late-night bite, attracting corporate lawyers, nonprofit staffers and blue-collar workers.
Not far away, the cavernous (21) 930 Club, 815 V Street NW, (202) 265-0930, www.930.com, is the performance space of choice for most headliners that pass through the district, like George Clinton and Chuck Brown.
Go-go, the city's indigenous percussion-driven funk music, is something that native Washingtonians embrace as if it were a losing hometown baseball team. To find live go-go performances these days, pick up a copy of Washington City Paper and skim the listings for Experience Unlimited, Rare Essence and Raw Image Band.
Where to Shop
(22) Kramerbooks at DuPont Circle, 1517 Connecticut Avenue NW, (202) 387-1462, www.kramers.com, is where political operatives can be spotted performing the "Washington read," flipping through a book index to see if they are mentioned. This Washington institution was thrust into the national spotlight when it fought Kenneth Starr's subpoena for Monica Lewinsky's purchasing records. (She reportedly bought "Vox," Nicholson Baker's book on phone sex, for President Clinton there.)
(23) Politics and Prose, 5015 Connecticut Avenue NW, (202) 364-1919, www.politics-prose.com, in the affluent neighborhoods of Northwest Washington, serves as a literary haven for the city's liberals and is the premier spot for book signings by the likes of Madeleine K. Albright.
An unapologetically preppy boutique, (24) Sherman Pickey, 1647 Wisconsin
Avenue NW, (202) 333-4212, www.shermanpickey.com, exudes Washington's polo-and-seersucker fashion aesthetic. It's one of the few stores where you can pick up Vineyard Vines ties, the pastel patterned neckwear that has transcended the partisan divide (both Democrats and Republicans order custom-made versions for their top fundraisers) and have become a standard way for politicos from the White House to K Street to express their individualism.
Shops selling vintage couture, designer home furnishings and foreign knick-knacks have given the (25) inverted L along U street (between 14th and 16th) and 14th (between S and U) a hipper atmosphere.
Your First Time or 10th
C-SPAN conveys little of the energetic buzz of a live (26) Senate vote. Senators stream into the elegant chamber as roll call is called and indicate their yea or nay with hand gestures as subtle as any in a Sotheby's auction. Gallery passes are required and can be obtained from the office of one of your state's senators. Congress is in recess until Jan. 19.
Where to Stay Wired
The coffee lounge (27) Tryst, 2459 18th Street NW, in Adams Morgan, (202) 232-5500, offers free wireless to its clientele who bring in laptops. With its plush armchairs and warm lighting, Tryst is a favored social forum for Washington singles, not to mention the locale for many Missed Connections postings on the local Craigslist.
How to Get There
Washington is served by three airports - Dulles International, Baltimore-Washington and Reagan National. Amtrak also links Washington to cities up and down the East Coast through (28) Union Station.
How to Get Around
On Washington's Metro system (www.wmata.com), a $1.35 fare will get you to most areas of the city (though not directly to Adams Morgan or Georgetown). Taxis work on a tiered zone system, which starts with a base fare of $5.50 in the city center but escalates with each additional zone, each additional passenger and a rush-hour surcharge.
JENNIFER 8. LEE is a reporter for The New York Times. |
