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WHAT'S DOING IN; Vancouver
By CLAUDIA ROWE
Published: May 23, 2004
A trip to Vancouver, a sparkling city of glass and steel edged with snowcapped mountains, blends international chic with rugged Pacific Northwest grandeur. You won't feel out of place dressed to the nines, nibbling haute cuisine, but the region's jaw-dropping topography adds an earthy undertone. Bustling high style is tempered by courtesy and reserve. Driving in Vancouver can be frenetic and exasperating, but no one honks.
In the past decade, with a flood of immigrants from Hong Kong, Vancouver has seen a sea change in its population. After English, Chinese is the second most-widely spoken language, Chinatown is vast and Asian restaurants of every kind dot many neighborhoods.
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Vancouver and the ski village of Whistler (80 minutes' drive north along the aptly named Sea to Sky Highway) have been selected as hosts for the 2010 Winter Olympic Games, and preparations including road-widening and frenzied real-estate speculation are already underway in anticipation of the coming hordes.
Colonized by the British in the late 18th century, Vancouver is today a bastion of progressive politics. One of the few major cities in North America where same-sex marriage is legal and marijuana use permitted, Vancouver's median age, 37, is below the Canadian average.
The city nevertheless maintains a sense of propriety and decorum. Its streets are clean, its gardens well tended and many of its parks overlook the shimmering ocean waters.
Events
Bard on the Beach, an annual Shakespeare festival, presents plays in outdoor tents with the dramatic Vanier Park waterfront as a backdrop. This year the festival, on the Web at www.bardonthebeach.org, features a ''Much Ado About Nothing'' set at the end of World War II with music from the big-band era; a Restoration-period production of ''The Merry Wives of Windsor''; and an intimately staged ''Macbeth.'' All three productions run June through September. Tickets range from $11.25 to $19, at 1.42 Canadian dollars to the United States dollar. Ticket information: (877) 739-0559.
For an hourlong snapshot of several million years in British Columbia's history, Storyeum, on the Web at www.storyeum.com, opens June 1, at 142 Water Street in the middle of Gastown, Vancouver's historic district. It presents a timeline of seven historic eras with actors and recreated environments. Visitors descend below street level into a prehistoric forest teeming with salmon, then watch a grandmother teaching her granddaughter in an Indian long house. A ship transporting colonists to America is next; a gold rush town follows, and so on. Admission is $15.50. Information: (800) 687-8142.
The Vancouver International Jazz Festival, known for its eclecticism, has been host to everyone from Wynton Marsalis to Sun Ra. Headliners this year include Oscar Peterson, Al Green and the Aaron Neville Quintet. The festival, from June 25 to July 4, runs from noon to well past midnight with jazz performers, blues musicians, funk, Latin and fusion artists performing across the city. Ticket prices range from $8.45 to $59.85, though there are also free concerts and package deals. Information: (888) 438-5200; the Web site, www.coastaljazz.ca, carries the full schedule.
Vancouver's mild climate allows the cultivation of an outstanding collection of plants; 7,500 species from six continents are on display at the VanDusen Botanical Garden, 5251 Oak Street, (604) 878-9274, on the Web at www.vandusengarden.org. This year, the garden will hold a show highlighting ''Gardens From Literature,'' with theme displays, exhibitors, presentations and food supplied by some of the city's top chefs. The show runs June 10 to 13. Admission is $13.
The Vancouver Folk Music Festival at Jericho Beach Park, July 16 to 18, (604) 602-9798, on the Web at www.thefestival.bc.ca, features aboriginal music, folk stories and dance, Afro-Latin bands, ''Fiddle Fever'' and dozens of other acts. Jericho Beach has beautiful views and one ticket provides access to all seven festival stages. Tickets range from $28.15 to $91.55 for a full weekend.
Sightseeing
Stanley Park, (604) 257-8400, an oasis of green in Vancouver's urban glitter, covers nearly 1,000 acres. Surrounded by water on three sides and crisscrossed by trails that wind through old-growth forest, it is one of the largest urban parks in North America. A five-mile seawall designed for leisurely bike rides and strolls wends along the shoreline, and there are bike rental shops nearby on Denman Avenue. Admission is free.
A few minutes' drive from downtown, the Capilano Suspension Bridge, (604) 985-7474, on the Web at www.capbridge.com, at 3735 Capilano Road in North Vancouver, is an unnervingly swingy structure of planks and cable 230 feet up that provides breathtaking views and a vertiginous thrill. Across the bridge, a short trail guides visitors through a 300-year-old temperate rain forest. Admission is $15.45 .
The public market on Granville Island, (604) 666-6477, on the Internet at www.granvilleisland.com, is crammed with produce stands selling everything from exotic mushrooms to handmade Italian pasta and fresh fish. The cold cuts at Tenderland Meats of Distinction, (604) 688-6951, could make carnivores out of many a vegetarian, and you can pick up a filling lunch of salmon pastry, Scotch pie and triple-berry cobbler at Laurelle's Fine Foods, (604) 685-8482, for about $10. From the dock outside you can watch the water taxis chug by. They're the smartest transportation mode from the downtown area, since Granville's streets are narrow and the parking is difficult. The public market is open daily.
The Museum of Anthropology, 6393 Northwest Marine Drive, (604) 822-5087, www.moa.ubc.ca, has no less than 535,000 artifacts, and its collection of Native American objects is considered among the most comprehensive on the continent. Part of the University of British Columbia, the museum augments its exhibits with contemporary examples of tribal art. The atrium-style Great Hall houses some 30 totem fragments. Open daily. General admission is $6.35.
A five-minute walk across campus from the anthropology museum is the Nitobe Memorial Garden, (604) 822-9666, www.nitobe.org, where cherry tree boughs hang over serene pools and the irises appear to grow on water in June and July. The full circular route symbolizes a journey through life. General admission is $2.11 and the garden is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. during the summer season.
Where to Stay
The Listel Vancouver Hotel, 1300 Robson Street, (604) 684-8461, fax (604) 684-7092, on the Web at www.listel-vancouver.com, is four blocks from Stanley Park. There are 129 rooms, and those on the Museum Floor are decorated with artistic flourishes curated by the Museum of Anthropology. Standard rooms are elegant, too, and the fitness center has a whirlpool. Doubles start at $140.15.
Nearby, at 1277 Robson Street, the Pacific Palisades Hotel, (604) 688-0461, fax (604) 688-4374, online at www.pacificpalisadeshotel.com, has 233 rooms in a lemon-lime color scheme, including one-bedroom suites with pull-out sofas in the living area. There is a large swimming pool, and the sleek Zin Restaurant features novelty martinis. Doubles start at $140.85.
For a more personal experience, the English Bay Inn bed-and-breakfast at 1968 Comox Street, (604) 683-8002, fax (604) 683-8089, Web site www.englishbayinn.com, serves four-course breakfasts daily. The inn, close to downtown, has six double rooms, two of them suites. Port and sherry are available all day for sipping. Prices range from $112.70 to $211.25 in the summer season.
Budget: A legendary haunt of Errol Flynn, the Sylvia Hotel, (604) 681-9321, fax (604) 682-3551, on the Web at www.sylviahotel.com, occupies an ivy-covered building at 1154 Guilford Street that dates from 1912. Its 119 rooms are small, but some face English Bay, and the staff is unfailingly friendly. An adjoining restaurant provides room service. Doubles start at $63.40.
Robson Suites, 777 Bidwell Street, (604) 685-9777, fax (604) 685-9707, www.robsonsuitesvancouver.com, offers 29 clean, airy apartments with fully stocked kitchens, washer-dryer units, patio balconies and pull-out sofa beds in the living area. Suites start at $119 a night, with free parking, and discounts for weeklong stays.
Luxury: From the day it opened in 1939, the 556-room, castle-like Fairmont Hotel Vancouver at 900 West Georgia Street, (604) 684-3131, fax (604) 662-1924, www.fairmont.com, has been welcoming the glamorous and wealthy. Standard doubles, starting at $217.60, include plush bathrobes and sleigh beds. Mavis, a big, friendly retriever, greets guests in the lobby.
Where to Eat
Bishop's, 2183 West Fourth Avenue, (604) 738-2025, has long been considered the standard for high-end dining in Vancouver. The room is rather sterile, but tuna tartare graced with cilantro and delicate crab cakes more than make up for it. Dinner for two with wine is about $120. Open daily for dinner.
At Lumière, 2551 West Broadway, the décor is sleek -- a white onyx bar faces the door -- and the fare is distinctly nouveau: bouillabaisse in a crab-lemongrass broth, for example. Dinner for two, with wine, about $176. Closed Mondays. (604) 739-8185.
Vij's, (604) 736-6664, prepares local ingredients with traditional Indian spices and techniques. No chicken tandoor here; instead try the duck breast with basmati rice pilaf, rich as beef, or the grilled kale in green onion curry. The room was designed to recall a jewel box, and the service is impeccable. Dinner for two with wine, about $70. Open daily for dinner. No reservations.
Repeat customers at Tojo's, 777 West Broadway, (604) 872-8050, know to get a seat at the sushi bar, place themselves in the chef's hands and pay the price. Tucked away on the second floor of an office building, the restaurant is known for the proprietor's way with a knife and his creativity: offerings like inside-out make rolls of warm shrimp and asparagus paired with chilled mango and avocado. Open for dinner. Closed Sundays. Dinner for two with sake, easily $140.85.
The Golden Swan, 5830 Victoria Drive, (604) 321-6621, serves family-style Chinese meals like fresh oysters with ginger and green onion. A meal for two is about $35. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
For a nightcap: After running around all day, it's nice to sit back and see where you've been from 42 stories up. The rotating Cloud Nine restaurant and lounge, atop the Empire Landmark Hotel at 1400 Robson Street; (604) 687-0511. You can gaze out at the skyscrapers; sip a martini, look up again and see the mountains. By the time you've decided to order dinner, the Pacific Ocean is in view. Dinner for two with drinks is about $60. Open for dinner daily.
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