To: smolejv@gmx.net who wrote (4349 ) 10/14/1998 1:47:00 PM From: Jurgen Trautmann Read Replies (1) | Respond to of 11051
Hello Dudes, greatings from Nerja (Andaluzía) Looking out of my window - we have a nice small tower-room in the "Hotel Plaza" here, looking over a pretty pool, old roofs of the "city", Palmas and the "mare nostrum". Light and dark stripes slowly move over the water toward the beaches. It remembers me on times when we were sitting on the beach observing surfers on their waves for hours. When a surfer want to ride a wave, a first problem is to choose the right wave and to become enough fast so that the wave doesn't roll under you through instead taking you with. Therefor a surfer must decide early, clear and doubtless. He has just one moment - if he starts in this, the right, moment, he can got the wave - from now on it's as easy as biking the mountain down. When you miss a wave: doesn't matter. There are more waves coming in. One by one. But - depending from the situation - only every 45 minutes comes a optimal set. And in this set, only 3 waves are good. Only one - as ever - can be "the best". Nearly one hour waiting and preaching, everytime in tense, everytime ready to give all you can. All that for - if you're lucky - one great ride of a few seconds. You can make statistics. The average amplitude of all waves is zero. The speed of all waves is the same. All waves are built from seawater. And the girls on the beach find it boring to look at their friends the hole long day. But, why the devil one goes in the brakes and risks his life? For surfing or for statistics? I'm facing a hard night - we don't know where we can find a Guinness-pub in this nice small town. Happy trading! Jury (dreamjob beachboy)