Timor's uneasy date with destiny
By Tim Dodd
The pace is slow in Dili. It is a sleepy, tropical town where the people spend a lot of time waiting for things to change.
Pristine beaches with superb coral formations have long promised a tourist bonanza, but nothing ever happens. The shabby streetscape rarely alters.
The noteworthy buildings in the town are ones left by the Portuguese when they abruptly exited in 1975.
At the Turismo Beach Hotel, a very run down establishment whose shady courtyards and friendly atmosphere make it the first choice for most foreigners, lunch is served each day by the same man who gave Roger East his last meal in November, 1975.
East, an Australian journalist, ate his lunch and was then killed by invading Indonesian troops as he walked to the telegraph office to file his story.
The progress toward peace has been just as slow and tortuous as the pace of change in Dili, but now it stands at a critical point.
East Timor, the place where most things are indefinite, has a firm date with destiny.
On August 8 there is due to be a United Nations-run ballot which will offer a choice between continuing association with Indonesia or independence.
If the ballot succeeds, East Timor may be able to make the transition to peace. If it fails, it probably means a return to civil war.
The firebrands on both sides are making the latter a definite option.
Enrico Guterres is a twenty-something tough guy, the Dili-based leader of the Aitarak, or Thorn, militia.
His people were the ones who, on a Saturday afternoon four weeks ago, rampaged through Dili seeking out independence leaders, their friends and families, and killing them.
At least 12 died in that incident and many others fled.
Will Guterres accept the result of a ballot which decides in favour independence?
"I cannot accept the result of independence because if that happens there will be an even more destructive war than we had before. Because the moment we have independence people will start killing each other," he said.
If this eventuates, some of the principal killers will be his men. Guterres lives in a compound called the Tropical Motel, which looks like a run-down military barracks and is actually owned by the army, as is much of the real estate in Dili.
He has had a long association with the Indonesian army. He helped the military capture the independence guerilla leader, Xanana Gusmao, in 1992.
Why is he so fervently pro-Indonesian?
He said his father, grandfather, uncles and other family members were killed by Fretilin forces some 20 years ago.
There are also warnings from the independence side that an adverse result will not be accepted.
David Ximenez, presently the senior guerilla leader on the ground, said by phone from his hiding place: "If the balloting is set up properly, and autonomy wins, we will accept. That's fine. But if it isn't, then we will keep on fighting."
Independence supporters want a UN peacekeeping force, rather than the Indonesian army and police, to be responsible for security in the lead-up to the ballot.
They claim, justifiably, that the Indonesians have done nothing to stop, and in fact have aided, intimidation and killing by the militias.
"Hopefully there will be a change (in the security arrangements). But if we are forced to accept the voting with Indonesia entrusted with the security, then we will keep up the fight," Ximenez said.
But Indonesia, which regards East Timor as a legitimate province, will never permit outside military forces to take responsibility for security.
The UN force will contain a security element, but these will be police, probably unarmed, whose role will be limited to advising the Indonesian police.
A UN-sponsored peace settlement for the territory, which includes the ballot, was concluded 10 days ago by Indonesia and the former colonial ruler, Portugal.
But the agreement, signed in New York, has had little impact in the province.
The Catholic Church, which is a powerful unifying force in East Timor, is leading efforts to find a peace settlement which works locally.
It is trying to revive talks between the two sides which stalled earlier this year.
On Thursday evening Bishop Carlos Belo joined hundreds of others in a candlelit procession through Dili to call for an end to violence.
One advantage is that both the pro and anti-independence forces owe allegiance to the Catholic Church.
Ninety per cent of East Timor is Catholic, so there is no religious divide, unlike other Indonesian trouble spots.
There is a backlash in Dili against the continuing violence. Florentino Sarmento, the local representative of the Indonesian government's Human Rights Commission, said the problem was to get people "to know in their hearts" that violence is not the way to solve the conflict.
But the grounds for a compromise are not evident. The pro-integrationist side warns of civil strife if the UN ballot produces a winning side and a losing side and proposes an accord to avoid conflict.
They invite the independence organisation, the National Council Timorese Resistance (CNRT), to accept the Indonesian Government's autonomy package.
Is this a compromise? Yes, says a senior pro-integration leader, Lopez de Cruz.
He insists his side has already given ground by accepting Jakarta's offer for limited autonomy in place of the present situation where the province is fully integrated into Indonesia.
Never mind the fact that President Habibie, in charting his new course for East Timor, did not offer the option of continuing the status quo.
In the meantime, the violence goes on. Four people died in terror attacks in Dili early this week, as armed militia cruised the streets in large trucks and lashed out at students at the university, people at the market and residents of Santa Cruz on Dili's outskirts.
The present cycle of violence dates from the formation of the militia groups late last year.
Members of the East Timorese elite, who have done well from Indonesia's presence, grew alarmed at President Habibie's determination to change the status of the province and formed their own group, the Forum for Justice and Unity.
The militia groups are the forum's fighting wing.
The violence stepped up a notch when the Red and White Iron militia group, named after the colours of the Indonesian flag, attacked independence supporters sheltering in a church compound in Liquisa, a seaside town 30km west of Dili. At least 25 died.
According to the Human Rights Commission's Sarmento, the massacre followed an attack in the area by pro-independence forces.
But it sparked a call from Xanana, the CNRT leader, for his forces to resume hostilities.
Then came the killings in Dili by Guterres' Aitarak group four weeks ago. One week ago there were confirmed reports that Red and White Iron had driven thousands of people from their homes in the Liquisa area into temporary camps under the control of the pro-integrationists.
Independence supporters claim there are more such camps spread through the province where people have been forced to go after being threatened and their homes burned.
This is the situation facing the UN as it attempts to set up a democratic ballot, free from coercion, on a date less than three months away.
According to Sarmento, who himself favours staying with Indonesia, the timetable is too fast.
He says that because of the intimidation, the odds are stacked in favour of the pro-integrationists.
Pro-independence leaders have fled their homes to seek safety and many have left the province, which leaves the campaigning very one-sided.
Sarmento called on the Indonesian Government to release Xanana from the house in Jakarta where he is held in detention.
A charismatic leader who is willing to set the past aside, he is regarded by diplomats as the only figure on the independence side who has the qualities necessary to bring peace.
"If you are going to have a vote he must be free. There is a big difference in vision between Xanana and his deputies," Sarmento said.
Yet to postpone the vote, now that the date has been set, would be to invite more unrest.
President Habibie wants the ballot in early August so the new parliament can deal with the East Timor issue when it meets on August 29.
That way he has some hope of getting the issue resolved before his term ends in November, and he can leave the new deal for East Timor as his legacy.
The people of Dili may be accustomed to waiting but they are tired of it.
Dr Kevin Baker, an Australian serving as a volunteer in the town's Catholic clinic, said that in the last few weeks he has seen a sense of fear and despair grow.
"The light in people's eyes has dimmed," he said.
Rumours run wild. One was that three American warships were in Bali and would soon arrive in Dili to unload a force of US peacekeepers. Of course, nothing happened.
I had a conversation with a senior Indonesian army officer whose responsibilities include East Timor.
He picked up my copy of one of the authoritative modern books on his country, A Nation in Waiting, by Adam Schwarz.
He turned to the chapter on East Timor and read a quote from the former Indonesian-appointed governor, Mario Carrascalao, now an independence supporter who has been driven into exile by militia threats.
"There is a large gap between what Jakarta says it wants to do in East Timor and what actually happens in East Timor," he read. "That is true," he said emphatically.
"That is true."
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